Areas at a glance
- Station area and main street: shops selling yuba and sweets, cafés, most budget accommodation.
- World Heritage precinct: Toshogu, Futarasan Shrine, Rinno-ji and Taiyuin, plus the Tamozawa Imperial Villa nearby.
- Chuzenji: the lake, Kegon Falls and Chuzen-ji temple.
- Oku-Nikko: Senjogahara marsh boardwalks, Ryuzu and Yudaki falls, Yumoto hot springs.
- Kinugawa: onsen hotels and theme parks.
Planning the day
On a day trip, either concentrate on the shrines and leave by mid-afternoon, or start at the lake: take the first bus up to Kegon Falls, return to the shrines by about 13:00 when the morning crowds thin, and visit Taiyuin last. Attempting everything by public transport after a late start does not work.
Eating and drinking
Nikko’s speciality is yuba, the delicate skin skimmed from heated soy milk, served fresh, rolled, fried or over rice and noodles. Shaved ice made from natural mountain ice is a summer treat. Many restaurants close by late afternoon, so eat lunch in Nikko and dinner at your inn or back in Tokyo.
Passes and money-saving
The Tobu Nikko Pass (bought before you travel or at Asakusa) covers the base train fare and local buses; the limited-express surcharge is extra. With a Japan Rail Pass the JR route costs nothing more, and you buy only a bus pass in Nikko. Combined shrine tickets save a little if you visit several.
Good to know
Nikko is cooler than Tokyo by several degrees, and the lake by several more: bring layers at any time of year. From December to March expect ice on shrine steps and snow at Chuzenji. Wild monkeys along the Irohazaka road and at the lake snatch food — do not feed them or carry open bags.
Sample plans
Day trip: shrines only
An early limited express from Asakusa, Shinkyo Bridge, Toshogu, Futarasan Shrine and Taiyuin, a yuba lunch and a late-afternoon train back.
Day trip: shrines and lake
The first train of the day, bus straight to Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji, back down to Toshogu after lunch — or let a coach tour from Tokyo do the driving.
Two days
Day one in the World Heritage precinct and the Tamozawa Imperial Villa, overnight in Nikko or at the lake. Day two: Kegon Falls, a walk across Senjogahara marsh and a hot-spring bath.
